FAQ

1. Cut clay into smaller sections, put in microfiber towel or felt in the plastic bag, and 10-15 oz. of water, close the bag. The moisture from the cloth will penetrate into the clay in about a day or so.

2. Manual wedging with adding extra water until the consistency is right.

3. Use a pug mill and add small amounts of water while cycling the clay through the pug mill several times to get the right consistency. Then the tubes can be loaded directly from the pug mill.

Some Clay Recommendations and Observations

Clay – Laguna B-Mix 5 WC401. You can get it in prepared bags and use our preparation method.

Stoneware – Maccabees cone 5 stoneware has the best interlayer adhesion and is quite easily extruded in our extruders. We do add some water to the stoneware which seems to help with interlayer adhesion and ease of extrusion.

Earthenware – Vince’s Low White Clay earthenware performs well also although it does not extrude as easily as the stoneware. The interlayer adhesion is a little bit less than the stoneware also but this doesn’t seem to be a problem as long as you do not let the moisture come out of the clay too fast after printing.

Porcelain – Axner Mary’s Porcelain Clay is the only porcelain that we have experimented with. The interlayer adhesion seems to be a problem as the moisture dissipates too quickly on a large print. Especially on larger vessels at the overlap point after a period of time, the moisture doesn’t seem to be there. This also depends on the environment’s temperature and humidity.

There’s so much to say and so much experimenting to be done in our 3D ceramic studio. We have yet to make up our own clay preparation and this is another way to go.

Ready to Print Clay – Sio-2 has premade bagged clay, with the correct amount of water content, ready to print out of the bag. For more information please visit their website. https://www.sio-2.com/gb/content/20-3d-printing-clays-sio-2

The Pugmill

The easiest way to load extruder tubes is with a pugill. For best results, a de-airing pug mill and a double auger will give you better performance than a single auger. Although a single auger is adequate, the consistency of the clay is more critical when it comes to loading the tubes. The consistency of the clay should be similar to standard throwing clay, but wetter. This can be accomplished by running the clay through the pug mill and adding a small quantity of water. If too much water is added to the clay the pug mill can actually not function sufficiently enough to load the tubes. This happens because the auger has no traction against the side of the pug mill as the clay mixture becomes too loose. It also depends on the pug mill and its ability to forcefully push the clay. It is necessary to have an adaptor for the nozzle of the pug mill to attach the polycarbonate tube for loading.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtHcdhgxBe8

Loading by hand

Using a 25 lb. bag of prepared clay, cut the clay into 4 pieces and put a microfiber towel in between the 4 pieces. Add 15 ounces of water to the bag, close the bag and make it airtight. Wait until the water has penetrated the clay, approximately one to two days. Now using the moist clay roll it into a cylinder a little bit smaller than the inside of the tube you are loading. Put the nozzle on the tube with tape over the end and gently tap the clay into the tube. Make sure to tap the tube and nozzle on a soft surface. This is the best method to load your tubes without a pug mill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbGbvmyD0-U

Trowel

Using a trowel or a spatula on a flat surface. Scoop clay into the tube then tap the tube on a soft surface. This will move the clay down into the tube as you continue to load the tube. If the consistency of the clay is correct, you can eliminate the air at the same time. This is the hardest loading method.

Changing tubes on the extruder

Changing out an empty tube on an extruder for a full one has many steps. Please watch our Extruder Tube Changing video for a full tutorial on how to easily change your tubes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWvMl37TE4s

In order to create an object you must first develop a shape. There are some simple programs like, Tinkercad, but our favorite is Fusion 360 which is free for students and small businesses. These software programs are capable of just taking simple shapes and turning them into very attractive objects to print on our ceramic printer.

After you’ve generated your vessel, it’s a simple process with Fusion 360 or any other program to turn it into STL file. From the STL file the program needs to be sliced and processed into g-code. This process has become very simple over time with multiple free programs like Repetier, Cura, and Simplify 3D which is $150 but has some very good features and visualizations.

Once you slice your object and set the parameters for the printer, it automatically generates the G code. This G code can be saved to an SD card and inserted or uploaded into the machine.

After loading the SD card, it’s a simple process of pushing two or three buttons and your print will start. From the touchscreen you have full control over the speed and ceramic flow again so that you’re capable of fine tuning the print even while it’s in process. For our wireless design, you can view all of your files and select which file you want to print.

3D Potter recommends Cura as one of the best Slicers to be used with our printers. It is free and we provide the profile for it which imports all of the settings of our printers.

Next would be Simplify 3D, which we provide profiles for as well. You can use any slicer as long as you enter the settings.

3D Potter printers, and extruders, are fully capable of retraction in between parts of an object. This is achieved by high reverse speeds of the piston in our extruders. Below are the settings which we recommend for ideal retraction use clay.

Retraction Distance: 1000mm
Extra Restart Distance: -10mm
Retraction Vertical Lift: 5mm
Retraction Speed: 1000mm/s
Coast: 5mm
Wipe: None

You can enter these setting directly into Cura or other slicers.

Simplify 3D’s maximum retraction distance is 200mm. In the process settings window you must add a terminal command under post processing which is under the Scripts tab.

{REPLACE “G1 E-200” “G1 E-1000”}

Explanation:
We need the extruder to retract very quickly a certain amount, so we set it to retract an arbitrary distance of “1000mm.” In reality, the piston does not move up a whole meter because it has a gearbox and acme screw reduction. Right after a layer finishes in Simplfy 3D, it resets the extruder value “E” to 0. With the retraction set to -1000mm, it sends the command E-1000. Think of this as a position on a number line. After moving up 5mm and moving to the next location, it sends the command E-10. This moves it from position -1000 to -10, which reprimes the extruder. “E” is then reset to 0 again, and the next layer starts.

This is how Simplfy 3D deals with retraction, other slicing software work differently and may not need the post processing script, or may use different punctuation for scripts.

All 3D potter printers broadcast their own WiFi network to connect to. Here is a guide on basic connection: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5__oClYqolI

The Scara and version 9/10 printers can be connected to in multiple ways. It can connect to a WiFi network, or generate its own, thus becoming its own router. When programming the WiFi to connect to an existing network (or to generate its own), the exact name and password of the wifi network it is connecting to (or generating) must be entered as a command, this is a one time event. When it powers up it runs through all of the commands in config file located in the sys folder. One of these commands is to tell the machine to connect to a network (M552 S1) or to generate its own network (M552 S2), this must be changed to what suits your needs.

3D Potter WiFi Network Connection Guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NysPeo8uz0g

WiFi programming guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vq9BJCUo9UxAJmw9oulXlpTHEubVVADhHvjnmOfZuP8/edit
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M587_Add_WiFi_host_network_to_remembered_list_or_list_remembered_networks
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M589_Configure_access_point_parameters

Connecting to the board via USB: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/How_to_guides/Getting_connected/Getting_connected_to_your_Duet

USB drivers: https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/blob/dev/Driver/WindowsDriverFiles.zip

YAT terminal: https://sourceforge.net/projects/y-a-terminal/

As an optional add-on to all of our printers, you can choose to have a non-WiFi model. This will make the printer have no WiFi module, and instead have an extra daughter board for Ethernet, perfect for facilities with WiFi restrictions.

Here is our manual on how to connect over Ethernet: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1hHrO7o_VC6m9qFqECqpWe7MxdM75YOUvm3MBIaY1gSU/edit

On the main ACME screw use Lithium Grease, White. It can be purchased at most hardware stores and the Home Depot
https://youtu.be/wWvMl37TE4s?t=283

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil-8-oz-Lithium-Grease-White-10533/202535870

On version 7,8,9 the printer rails have a very light coat of cleaner wax on them, make sure that not too much is applied. You should not be able too see any lumps on the rails, only a very thin sheen of reflecting light when viewed at an angle. Can be purchased at car parts stores and online.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbQcMEKAvRo

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=twister_B00ODVQYE8?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

For version 10 printers use a few drops of 3-in-one oil, this lubricates the whole rail for a few months. If the rail has debris on it, be sure to remove them and then use a few drops on the cleaned section of the rail to re-lubricate it. 3-in-one is sold at most hardware stores.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhxjFMZ66GM

https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-10038-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B00065VGWK/
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-multi-purpose-oil-with-marksman-spout-61495.html
https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-with-Marksman-Spout-4-OZ/26394959

In order to drive the linear Ram stepper motor, you will have to supply the ENGAGE, STEP, and DIRECT signals at 3 amps (these are typical stepper motor requirements).

The stepper motor we use requires ~2.7 amps so plan accordingly if you’re going to supply this directly from your equipment.

If you decide to drive your RAM remotely with hose, please be advised that we supply a hose adapter kit ($175). This kit comes with 24 inches of flexible high pressure clear hose. Please follow the recommended clay consistency when using the hose assembly. If your clay is too thick you will damage the hose assembly and/or the ram. This is a disadvantage of using a hose assembly or compressed air and auger arrangement. Your clay has to be considerately thinner in order for the pressure to remain relatively low. This is again why we recommend direct nozzle extrusion because you are able to extrude a much thicker clay and achieve much larger vessels faster and without the disadvantages of thin clay mixtures.

Version 9, 10, and Scara Printers

You can control the printer over USB using a slicing interface such as Simplify 3D. (Other slicers may not have this functionality). Controlling a printer over USB circumvents the Duet web interface. Generally, a slicer is injecting g-code line by line in a livestream over USB when using this method. This means the slicer is in full control of the printer over USB, and the printer does not even have the file on it.

It is VERY IMPORTANT that your printer and computer are plugged into the same power source, preferably a power strip. If you have old or incorrect wiring in your building, plugging the printer into one outlet and the computer into a different one could complete a circuit once you plug in the USB cable. This will cause PERMANENT DAMAGE to your computer and the printer. This is caused by a power outlet’s ground and neutral wiring being swapped. On 120V 60Hz AC, devices still work normally if the ground and neutral wiring is swapped. However if you plug your computer into a correctly wired outlet and the printer into an incorrectly wired outlet, or vise-versa; when you connect a USB cable between them it can complete a 60v circuit which will fry them. This is not covered under our warranty.

You may need to install the Duet USB driver to use this functionality depending on what type of computer you are using. YAT is not needed for control over USB, just possibly the drivers. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/1.)+Getting+Connected+to+your+Duet/7

The sound you are experiencing is most likely the stepper motor stalling. There are several reasons this could happen.

1. There is not enough lubrication on the screw and/or the anti-rotator nut that moves up and down the square tube (this is likely).

2. The clay is too hard, not allowing the motor to overcome to force needed to push it out through the nozzle, or there is a blockage in the nozzle (this is likely).

3. The piston is jammed in the cylinder (this is unlikely).

4. The gearbox is jammed, or the motor is defective (this is highly unlikely).

We also get about 1/4-1/2 inch (~6-12mm) or so of harder clay remaining at the end of the clay cartridge. This can be from clay being exposed to air in the tube, causing it to dry out faster than clay in the middle of the tube. The ACME screw can also be a cause of this problem on our longer tubes. It is possible that the screw could of been bent slightly, causing a deviation from being straight the more it is extended due to clay that is too hard.

Version 7 and 8 Files: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/17SyRW33Ua2Ntg8jETBB6FJ_BKQo1oQxq

Version 9 Assembly Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DVUnrFeb7Y

Version 9 Files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dPGVhLVZ13wzqfa5krFOvzi3MS4vp40a

Cura Version 7/8 (BETA): https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1gMIT-jpuzOtrdOlDTkSo2DfiDqaj3h_L

Cura version 9: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wFOqGLJi4I6vKdObJixqlId5zW_X1Xt_

Simplify 3D version 7/8: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/17zgPP91VcT9LvdYnG0P2AAMqisem0Mls

Simplify 3D version 9: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dL1q_518gyG5UT8-nL0jzhGY_x3NlxHf

When your printer arrives it’s typically set at a moderate Z height. The problem with setting maximum Z height when we ship the printer is that if you’re printing a small object it takes a long time for it to come down to the bat to start the print. If you’re always printing objects 200mm high then you should set the Z height at something like a maximum of 250mm.
If you want to utilize your 3D Potterbot to the maximum ability on the Z axis: First put a tube in the machine (with a nozzle) as high as it can go on the clamp. Now jog down the Z axis till the nozzle is almost touching the bat. Now take a tape measure and measure from the top of the car to the limit switch on the top of the Z rail (The top of the car to where it would be hitting the limit switch in its highest position). This is your maximum Z that you can enter into the configuration (Config) file in millimeters measured. DO NOT CHANGE THE FIRMWARE FILE.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKtd7GA88xM

To change this number power off the machine and unplug the power supply. Now plug that USB cable into your printer which is located under the screen. It should show up as a USB drive on your laptop. There will be two files and you want to open the config file. Look at the gamma_max (325), this is the number that you have to change to change the Z height in mm. Just hit save and that’s it. Be sure not to change this file in any other way or the machine will not function. I recommend that you back this up before you even start in case there is a problem. Do not run the USB cable while the machine is plugged into the wall.

# Endstops
endstops_enable                 true
scara_homing                    true
alpha_min_endstop               1.24^!
alpha_max_endstop               nc
alpha_homing_direction          home_to_min
alpha_min                       0
beta_min_endstop                nc
beta_max_endstop                1.26^!
beta_homing_direction           home_to_max
beta_max                        157.6
#gamma_min_endstop               nc
#gamma_max_endstop               nc
#gamma_max_travel                0
alpha_homing_retract_mm         3
beta_homing_retract_mm          3

gamma_min_endstop                            nc               # this was working
gamma_max_endstop                            1.29^!           #
gamma_homing_direction                       home_to_max      #
gamma_min                                    0                #
gamma_max                                    325          #was  325

To change the height on version 9 and 10 printers, you only have to change the maximum Z travel distance in the config. Please watch our tutorial video for the full instructions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyzKJ2o4D1s&t

SETTINGS THE Z TRAVEL DISTANCE BEYOND ITS MAXIMUM VALUE WILL CRASH THE MACHINE AND VOID THE WARRANTY. CRASHING THE MACHINE CAN CAUSE PERMANENT DAMAGE.

Hybrid closed loop stepper motor circuit diagram: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mM3pHgCQtC6CkLPrFC18jmNuRIZwesA1/view

3D Potter uses two type of motors on our printers, normal stepper motors and hybrid closed loop steppers. The hybrid closed loop steppers, which use green connectors, have 6 setting switches on these motors. These switches control settings such as speed and direction. If the machine is not printing correctly, such as printing ovals instead of circles or rectangles instead of squares, one of these switches my have been accidentally flipped. To change them, you need to remove to protective tape covering them, and flip them to the correct positions displayed below.

7 Series printer
X Motor 1 and 4 ON
Y Motor 1 and 4 ON
Z Motor 1 and 4 ON
Extruder Motor 3 and 4 ON

Duet Series Printer
X Motor 3 and 4 ON
Y Motor 3 and 4 ON
Z Motor 3 and 4 ON
Extruder Motor 3 and 4 ON

With the launch of our version 10 printers, updated system files are available for improved performance.

Upgrading from version 10.0 to version 10.1 requires removal of epoxy on parts of the printer, as well as uploading of files to the printer. Please contact our tech support department for specific instructions on how to preform this update.

Upgrading from version 10.1 to version 10.2 only requires uploading of files through the printer interface. Only the config and homing files are updated.

Version 10.1 patch notes: Improved speed on all rails. Improved interface response time. Improved homing and test files.

Version 10.2 patch notes: Fixed inverted prints from what is displayed in slicing software.

Version 10.3 patch notes: Cosmetic changes to plastic covers

You can check what version printer you are on by viewing the printer’s configuration file.

All 3D potter content (on all of of our social media platforms and this website) is under a Creative Commons license. Under the Creative Commons Attribution license, commonly abbreviated as CC or CC-BY, you are free: to Share — to copy, distribute and transmit the work. to Remix — to adapt the work.

While we do not require BY to be apart of content that is Reused/Shared/Remixed, it is only our preference. BY referes to mentioning 3D Potter, giving us credit in the the content that is Reused/Shared/Remixed.